Terroir; the French word for soil, has caused more arguments than any other word in the wine world. This is a word with many definitions but it can be best described as the Mesoclimate of a vineyard. The French Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system for classifying quality wines is based on hundreds of years of exploring terroir and most wine experts agree that it exists. Terroir is the combination of natural and sometimes man made influences that give a wine its particular characteristics. These are usually evident in acidity and tannin, but sometimes other unique characteristics can develop in flavours and textures.
In the vineyard there are many factors that affect the Mesoclimate; slope, elevation, and aspect, depth of soil layers and even roads and drainage channels. These features are not unique to vineyards. I grew up on a small farm and anyone who has worked the same piece of land for a few seasons begins to see evidence of terroir through the growth of foliage, fruit production and fruit quality of particular areas.
Most New World wine producing countries are guilty of producing mass produced wines with no terroir distinction at all. This accusation is justified when you look at the flood of these mass produced branded wines that are available on the market from countries like Chile, USA, and Australia. When people think wine brands they automatically think Australia. Jacobs Creek, Wolfblass, and Hardy’s produce a huge range of wines made from grapes grown all over Australia. The grapes that make these wines are transported large distances and blended to a recipe to taste the same every year and have no terroir. But maybe the term ‘Mass Terroir’ could be used to describe the flavour and character of mass produced wines, made from grapes grown over a large set area. Two mass produced Chardonnays from two different countries have different qualities; this could be classes as ‘Mass Terroir’. Somehow I don’t think that this term will catch on!
Mass produced wines exist due to the extremely lucrative bottom end of the wine market. The reason that there is a niche in the market is because most wines made in locations with recognized terroir cannot produce good quality wines at that price point. But these mass produced wines have given the well needed revenue for new world viticulturists to experiment with varying Terroir in their own wine growing regions. Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Shiraz, Napa Valley Pinot Noir and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc are just a few to gain international recognition.
New Terroirs are discovered every year and with new technology in soil mapping and vineyard planning, old established terroirs are being re-examined.Allowing new world countries true recognition for wines made to express terroir distinction will be of benefit to the wine industry and establish new niche markets. In the long run it will hopefully be more profitable for winemakers to produce terroir wines, but there will always still be a market for a good mass produced wine for about £5. The existence Terroir will always be a disputed issue because just like me, everyone has a different opinion as to what Terroir is.
Wednesday, 26 September 2007
Friday, 7 September 2007
New Wine Tasting Notes Site
This is the new part of my site dedicated to wine tasting notes. Every wine we try will be be posted here.
http://indiscriminant-drinkertastingnote.blogspot.com/
http://indiscriminant-drinkertastingnote.blogspot.com/
Sunday, 19 August 2007
PINOT NOIR
You're beautiful...a goddess...but so exasperating! Loving you is like worshiping an unfaithful temptress! As often as you've disappointed us with your undependable ways, you always seem to draw us back. Your alluring beauty and elegance leave us helpless and forgiving of all your moodiness. So long disdainful of any place outside of your home on the golden slopes of Burgundy, we’ve learned to pacify your temperamental nature with brisk coastal breezes and hillside vistas of the New World. Perhaps now you will grace us with all the charm and beauty that has kept the Burgundians devoted to you for centuries.This quote is from:
http://wine.appellationamerica.com/grape-varietal/Pinot-Noir.html
http://wine.appellationamerica.com/grape-varietal/Pinot-Noir.html
Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. The name comes from the pinecone shape that the bunches of grapes resemble and the colour of the grapes. Pinot Noir has been cultivated in Burgundy, France since the first century AD, and was used as sacramental wine by the churches that owned all of the vineyards in Burgundy after the Romans withdrew. It remained that way until the French revolution in 1789 when the vineyards were taken away from the church and given to the resident families of burgundy.
Pinot Noir is an extremely temperamental grape to grow being susceptible to almost every ailment that can affect grapes, and is very particular about needing a moderately cool climate to produce good quality wines. Pinot Noir is also very susceptible to mutations with over 50 different mutated versions existing in France today.
Every major wine producing nation of the world has at least some pinot noir vines planted, but with varying levels of success. France, New Zealand, Chile, California and Australia all produce some excellent Pinot Noirs. South Africa even has its own unique cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault called Pinotage which is beginning to gain popularity across the world. Pinot Noir is also one of the essential components of Champagne along with Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. (Some people may ask how a grape that produces red wine can be used in a white sparkling wine? The answer is that almost all wine producing grapes are white inside and it is only extended maceration with the skin that makes wine red.)
Pinot Noir can be matched with a wide array of foods. It can match well with red meats as long as the meat is not flavoured with too much spice. It can accompany many seafood dishes but is best with strong flavoured fish such as salmon, swordfish and even shark. I believe the best match for Pinot Noir is a strong flavoured smoked cheese, which can compliment the fruity components of young Pinot Noir, and also matches well with the smokey cigar box flavours of oak aged Pinots.
France
Pinot Noir thrives in France’s Burgundy region, particularly on the Cote d’Or which has produced some of the world's most celebrated wines for centuries. Demand for Red Burgundies usually outweighs supply but you can still buy decent Pinot Noirs from Burgundy for under £10 a bottle, but £20 will get you a wine that is smooth, silky and unmatched by any other Pinot Noir producing region in the world. The ‘Appellation Controlle’ system has named certain parcels of land as ‘Premiere Cru’ and ‘Grand Cru’ which is the name given to the best quality wines made in Burgundy. These Cru wines can sell for twice the price or more than the wine made on neighboring land which can seem strange to people not familiar with the French wine system, but we will talk more on this topic in my article named ‘Terrior’ which will be posted in the coming weeks.
Pinot Noir is also grown in a few other areas of France, such as Sancerre in the Loire Valley and Champagne, but is at its best in Burgundy. Some vineyards are producing Rose wines from Pinot Noir in the south of France, but these wines do not fit in with the Appellation Controlle system and are therefore ‘Vin de Pays’, which is classed as lesser quality wine but yet again I will leave that argument for a later article.
U.S.A.
In the United States Pinot Noir has had considerable success in California, Oregon, Washington State and in the state of New York. It was introduced during the 1930s and has flourished producing some very good quality wines. A majority of Pinot Noir is grown in California where it produces light, fruity wines that have gained a cult following across the world. Areas such as Sonoma, Napa Valley, and the Central Coast are continuing to produce increasing better Pinot Noirs, with gamey vegetal notes, and the better quality wines have similar flavours to Burgundy Pinots. As more vineyards begin to open up in cooler regions the quality will continue to increase and with it, the aging potential of their Pinot Noirs.
Chile
Although wine has been grown in Chile since the days of the Spanish Conquisitors, more high altitude vineyards have begun to produce great quality wines for the world market. The bulk of Chile’s wines are grown in the Central Valley, but the best wine comes from the higher river valleys such as Casablanca, Rapel and Maipo Valleys. These high altitude areas have the potential to produce amazing wines and some conscientious winemakers are producing top quality cooler climate wines such as Pinot Noir and even Riesling. Due to the economic situation of Chile, great wines can be purchased at prices that other countries cannot compete with. Pinot Noir ripens very well in this climate and can produce rich ripe strawberry and raspberry flavours and extremely light coloured wines that can be difficult to beat on price point. The future of Chilean wines looks good with an ever increasing share of the world market.
Tasting Notes
Blason de Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Cote Chalonnaise 2006, Burgundy, France £7.99
Deep dark ruby colour with subtle aromas of smoke and wet leaves. This wine displays aromas of orange blossom which is not an aroma traditionally found in red wine but it is definitely present.
The palate is slightly disappointing with a small amount of red fruits, medium tannins, medium body and a short finish. This is not a great example of a cheap Burgundy but I purchased it from a supermarket so did not expect a great deal.
Rating: 5/10
Pinot Noir is an extremely temperamental grape to grow being susceptible to almost every ailment that can affect grapes, and is very particular about needing a moderately cool climate to produce good quality wines. Pinot Noir is also very susceptible to mutations with over 50 different mutated versions existing in France today.
Every major wine producing nation of the world has at least some pinot noir vines planted, but with varying levels of success. France, New Zealand, Chile, California and Australia all produce some excellent Pinot Noirs. South Africa even has its own unique cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault called Pinotage which is beginning to gain popularity across the world. Pinot Noir is also one of the essential components of Champagne along with Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. (Some people may ask how a grape that produces red wine can be used in a white sparkling wine? The answer is that almost all wine producing grapes are white inside and it is only extended maceration with the skin that makes wine red.)
Pinot Noir can be matched with a wide array of foods. It can match well with red meats as long as the meat is not flavoured with too much spice. It can accompany many seafood dishes but is best with strong flavoured fish such as salmon, swordfish and even shark. I believe the best match for Pinot Noir is a strong flavoured smoked cheese, which can compliment the fruity components of young Pinot Noir, and also matches well with the smokey cigar box flavours of oak aged Pinots.
France
Pinot Noir thrives in France’s Burgundy region, particularly on the Cote d’Or which has produced some of the world's most celebrated wines for centuries. Demand for Red Burgundies usually outweighs supply but you can still buy decent Pinot Noirs from Burgundy for under £10 a bottle, but £20 will get you a wine that is smooth, silky and unmatched by any other Pinot Noir producing region in the world. The ‘Appellation Controlle’ system has named certain parcels of land as ‘Premiere Cru’ and ‘Grand Cru’ which is the name given to the best quality wines made in Burgundy. These Cru wines can sell for twice the price or more than the wine made on neighboring land which can seem strange to people not familiar with the French wine system, but we will talk more on this topic in my article named ‘Terrior’ which will be posted in the coming weeks.
Pinot Noir is also grown in a few other areas of France, such as Sancerre in the Loire Valley and Champagne, but is at its best in Burgundy. Some vineyards are producing Rose wines from Pinot Noir in the south of France, but these wines do not fit in with the Appellation Controlle system and are therefore ‘Vin de Pays’, which is classed as lesser quality wine but yet again I will leave that argument for a later article.
U.S.A.
In the United States Pinot Noir has had considerable success in California, Oregon, Washington State and in the state of New York. It was introduced during the 1930s and has flourished producing some very good quality wines. A majority of Pinot Noir is grown in California where it produces light, fruity wines that have gained a cult following across the world. Areas such as Sonoma, Napa Valley, and the Central Coast are continuing to produce increasing better Pinot Noirs, with gamey vegetal notes, and the better quality wines have similar flavours to Burgundy Pinots. As more vineyards begin to open up in cooler regions the quality will continue to increase and with it, the aging potential of their Pinot Noirs.
Chile
Although wine has been grown in Chile since the days of the Spanish Conquisitors, more high altitude vineyards have begun to produce great quality wines for the world market. The bulk of Chile’s wines are grown in the Central Valley, but the best wine comes from the higher river valleys such as Casablanca, Rapel and Maipo Valleys. These high altitude areas have the potential to produce amazing wines and some conscientious winemakers are producing top quality cooler climate wines such as Pinot Noir and even Riesling. Due to the economic situation of Chile, great wines can be purchased at prices that other countries cannot compete with. Pinot Noir ripens very well in this climate and can produce rich ripe strawberry and raspberry flavours and extremely light coloured wines that can be difficult to beat on price point. The future of Chilean wines looks good with an ever increasing share of the world market.
Tasting Notes
Blason de Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Cote Chalonnaise 2006, Burgundy, France £7.99
Deep dark ruby colour with subtle aromas of smoke and wet leaves. This wine displays aromas of orange blossom which is not an aroma traditionally found in red wine but it is definitely present.
The palate is slightly disappointing with a small amount of red fruits, medium tannins, medium body and a short finish. This is not a great example of a cheap Burgundy but I purchased it from a supermarket so did not expect a great deal.
Rating: 5/10
Lycee Viticole Beaune Premiere Cru, Cote d’Or, 2002, Burgundy France £18.95
This wine is at the other end of the burgundy spectrum, being made from Premiere Cru grapes at the wine school in Beaune. This is actually one of the wines I sell in my current job and have customers selling this wine for about £120 a bottle in restaurants in Knightsbridge, London. This is the kind of Burgundy that can age for a considerable length of time and will continue to develop smooth round flavours.
Rich ruby red colours with aromas of subtle ripe raspberry. The palate exhibits typical Cru Burgundy flavours of strawberry and cherry and a smokey herbaceous finish that goes on forever. The high levels of acidity and soft round tannins make this a wine that brings out the wow factor in any drinker and at this price will never disappoint.
Rating: 9/10
Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir, 2005, Central Coast, California, USA £6.99
Tawny red in colour with a pale rim. This wine exhibits aromas of cigar box, cloves and black cherries with a palate of under-ripe plums. This wine has high acidity and a short finish, but has no tannin which makes me think that it was produced using Carbonic Maceration. (This is the process of placing whole bunches of grapes in a vat under a blanket of carbon dioxide. The fermentation begins and in the absence of yeast the grapes own enzymes cause the fermentation, the result is good colour extraction from the skins, but no tannin, and a soft fruity palate.)
Rating: 5/10
Vistamar Sepia Pinot Noir, 2006, Casablanca Valley, Chile £5.99
Vibrant ruby red colour with aromas of smoke, chocolate and wild flowers. The palate has intense strawberry flavours with a medium length smokey finish. The high acidity and light bodied nature of this wine make it extremely easy to drink and at this price I dare anyone to find a better value Pinot Noir from anywhere in the world.
Rating: 8/10
This wine is at the other end of the burgundy spectrum, being made from Premiere Cru grapes at the wine school in Beaune. This is actually one of the wines I sell in my current job and have customers selling this wine for about £120 a bottle in restaurants in Knightsbridge, London. This is the kind of Burgundy that can age for a considerable length of time and will continue to develop smooth round flavours.
Rich ruby red colours with aromas of subtle ripe raspberry. The palate exhibits typical Cru Burgundy flavours of strawberry and cherry and a smokey herbaceous finish that goes on forever. The high levels of acidity and soft round tannins make this a wine that brings out the wow factor in any drinker and at this price will never disappoint.
Rating: 9/10
Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir, 2005, Central Coast, California, USA £6.99
Tawny red in colour with a pale rim. This wine exhibits aromas of cigar box, cloves and black cherries with a palate of under-ripe plums. This wine has high acidity and a short finish, but has no tannin which makes me think that it was produced using Carbonic Maceration. (This is the process of placing whole bunches of grapes in a vat under a blanket of carbon dioxide. The fermentation begins and in the absence of yeast the grapes own enzymes cause the fermentation, the result is good colour extraction from the skins, but no tannin, and a soft fruity palate.)
Rating: 5/10
Vistamar Sepia Pinot Noir, 2006, Casablanca Valley, Chile £5.99
Vibrant ruby red colour with aromas of smoke, chocolate and wild flowers. The palate has intense strawberry flavours with a medium length smokey finish. The high acidity and light bodied nature of this wine make it extremely easy to drink and at this price I dare anyone to find a better value Pinot Noir from anywhere in the world.
Rating: 8/10
These are four distinctly different Pinot Noirs from around the world and many more exist, some are similar, others very different. Nepenthe from Australia make some beautiful Pinot Noirs that look almost like a dark rose in colour and New Zealand with their cool climate is continuing to win awards across the world for Pinot Noir. It can be a little bit more expensive than the usual Cabernet or Merlot that most people are used to drinking, but for anyone interested in moving from drinking white wines to red, Pinot Noir is a great place to start.
Sunday, 12 August 2007
Riesling - The Rebirth
Riesling originated in the Rhine Valley of Germany around the 12th Century and quickly spread to Italy, France and Austria. It can be grown in many locations but produces its best expression in cool climates. It is a fruity, aromatic grape variety that can ripen late and still retain a high level of acidity. The variety of flavours that Riesling can produce vary greatly due to the climate and wine making methods used in its production.
Riesling makes up about 20% of Germanys total plantings and is used to produce all of Germany’s great wines. In cooler years it can fail to ripen in all but the best vineyards, which is why most German Rieslings have an alcohol content of about 10% or less. The German taste for sweet wines also means that fermentation is often stopped at about 8% to retain high levels of residual sugar. Flavours can range from green apples and melon through to petrol and kerosene when aged. (When I say petrol and kerosene I do not mean the kind of smell you get when you stick your head in a bucket of un-leaded, it is more subtle and less offensive than that.) The problem with all German wines is that without spending considerable amounts of money, the wine is usually sickly sweet with no particular flavours or aromas to back it up. But if you don’t mind splashing out on a good one it will never disappoint.
Riesling came to Australia with the influx of German settlers in the 1800’s. For a long time it was the most important white grape variety in Australia, but the quality of wines varied dramatically. Being a cold climate grape, the best Australian Rieslings are grown in the hills of the Eden Valley and the high altitudes of the Clare Valley, to allow the grapes to ripen slowly away from the intense heat of Australia. Tasmania is still in its infancy with wine production but Riesling is the obvious choice for white wine in this cool climate. Riesling is grown in many other regions but can sometimes lack the crisp acidity and abundant fruit that this variety can offer. Australian Riesling has plenty of citrus fruit flavours, particularly Lime and Lemon and can produce petrol flavours when made well, without the need for aging. Prices for Australian Riesling are very reasonable as they are not aged in expensive oak barrels, and their popularity is still recovering from the poor quality wines of the 70’s and 80’s that were not even Riesling. (Hunter Valley Riesling was actually Semillon, and the name Riesling was used on almost any poor quality sweet wine up until 2001.)
Riesling was late coming to New Zealand only being introduced in the 1970’s but has grown to be the third most planted white grape behind Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Marlborough is the main area of production and the wines can be crisp, delicate and have a touch of sweetness to balance the acidity. The growing of Riesling in New Zealand is an obvious choice, with their cool climate and use of stainless steel in the wine making process giving Riesling a fresh and tropical style that is becoming famous all over the world. Out of all the wine producing countries growing Riesling this is the one to watch.
Riesling is set to be a major player again in the international wine world with Alsace in France leading the way in Europe and New Zealand and even some of the highest Valleys of Chile and Argentina leading the new world styles. I have randomly selected 3 Rieslings all for about £7.99. Below are the tasting notes and scores that I have given them. All the information that I have provided is general information and as you will see from the tasting notes, there are always exceptions to the norm.
Fairleigh Estate, Single Vineyard Riesling, 2006, Marlborough, New Zealand
Clear pale lemon colour with a clean light aroma of petrol, toasted almonds and ripe pineapple. The palate is dry with loads of zesty acidity and flavours of lemon and lime with a medium finish. Could age for a few years and develop into a real treat.
Score: 6/10
Knappstein, Hand Picked Riesling, 2006 Clare Valley, Australia
Clear pale lemon in colour with a developing aroma of petrol and cedar. Dry with loads of acidity and a medium bodied lemony finish. A well balanced fruity style Riesling.
Score: 6/10
Weingut Dahmen, Riesling, 2005, Mosel, Saar, Germany
Clear pale lemon with a watery rim, and slight petulance. Clean light floral aroma with hints or honey dew. Medium-dry palate with slight flavours of Lemon and Honeycomb, with a short finish.
Score: 4/10
Tuesday, 31 July 2007
QUESTIONING TRADITIONS
There is a lot of pretence involved with the wine industry. From the French Appellation Controlle system of only allowing certain grapes to be grown on certain parcels of land, to the stereotypes about what are coincided the best wines. Being a person who entered the wine industry by accident, I stumbled into a world of new words, new wines and new w#%kers.
I had no preconceived ideas about what good wine was or which country made the best wine. But due to the fact that my wine education began in London, I was surrounded by people with big opinions about things that I now know they knew little about. I spent months being corrected on my pronunciation of Chablis and Semillon, and still have people correcting me because I don’t pronounce French words with an English accent.
This leads us to drinking wine. Too many people are afraid to say that they enjoy a wine, due to the fact that ‘the professionals’ have not given a wine a raving review. But what is the difference between a professionals taste buds and your? Most people will give a similar answer when asked what is the best wine in the world; Bordeaux, Burgundy, Primitivo. But has anyone ever stopped to wonder at the correlation between these favourite wines and the tastes of the affluent English.
Due to the influx of different varieties grown in new world locations we are experiencing new and exciting expressions of varietals that contradict the traditions. This coupled together with technology and the evolution of the wine drinker’s palate is changing the stigmas of traditional viticulture.
Some of the new and exciting varieties/locations that I feel deserve mention are:
Chenin Blanc from South Africa. This is by far the best expression of this variety. Intense tropical flavours and an off-dry finish. It is traditionally grown in the Loire Valley, France, where it is uninteresting and not a wine worth mentioning.
Chardonnay from Burgundy, France. This is the traditional home of this grape and still the best location for growing. The cold weather produces Chardonnay that is crisp, dry and completely unlike the Australian and American versions.
Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The intense green grass and asparagus flavour of New Zealand Sauvignon is now the benchmark for this varietal. Their background in the use of stainless steel in the dairy industry has changed wine making all over the world.
Semillon from the Hunter Valley Australia. This variety is traditionally grown in Bordeaux France where it is blended with Sauvignon Blanc to produce a dry, heavily oaked wine. But the best comes from the Hunter Valley where the grapes can ripen to full maturity and still retain good acidity. The wines can age well and develop a waxy, creamy palate with flavours of green fruit. An acquired taste, but worth trying.
Albarino from Rias Biaxis, Spain. This is one of my favourite wines and yet is almost completely unknown to the general public. It has an intense perfumed aroma and all the tropical fruit flavours that new world wine drinkers love. Can be a little expensive but if you see one buy it.
Torrontes from Argentina. This is another almost unknown variety and yet it is the most widely planted variety in Argentina. It has intense tropical fruit flavours and a lingering palate of lychees and pineapple. Good, cheap and interesting, you should try it when ever you see it you wont be disappointed.
Pinot Noir from Chile. This is a great expression of this traditional Burgundy grape. The Altitude of the Andes gives this difficult variety soft round flavour of strawberry and raspberry. In Chile the use oak is less obvious than in Burgundy but the wines are no less sophisticated.
Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, Australia. The cooling effect of the ocean helps Coonawarra to have a long slow ripening season. This produces Cabernet with delicious smokey flavours with hints of chocolate. Cabernet is originally from Bordeaux in France but has always relied on years of aging to make their under ripe wine enjoyable.
Shiraz from Barossa Valley, Australia. No where else on the planet can produce such rich ripe Shiraz as the Barossa Valley. There wines are full of plum and cigar smoke flavours once again due to ripe fruit. Shiraz or Syrah as the French call it is traditionally grown in the Rhone Valley, but the fruit usually fails to ripen completely and it is blended with Grenache and Mourvedre.
These are but a few of the new great wine producing areas of the world. It is by no means a comprehensive list, and in an industry which is as dynamic as this, it is bound to change again soon. As I mentioned in my previous article, climate change is likely to be the greatest factor involved with wine production. So make sure you remain an ‘Indiscriminant Drinker’ and enjoy every bottle on its merit and not its reputation.
I had no preconceived ideas about what good wine was or which country made the best wine. But due to the fact that my wine education began in London, I was surrounded by people with big opinions about things that I now know they knew little about. I spent months being corrected on my pronunciation of Chablis and Semillon, and still have people correcting me because I don’t pronounce French words with an English accent.
This leads us to drinking wine. Too many people are afraid to say that they enjoy a wine, due to the fact that ‘the professionals’ have not given a wine a raving review. But what is the difference between a professionals taste buds and your? Most people will give a similar answer when asked what is the best wine in the world; Bordeaux, Burgundy, Primitivo. But has anyone ever stopped to wonder at the correlation between these favourite wines and the tastes of the affluent English.
Due to the influx of different varieties grown in new world locations we are experiencing new and exciting expressions of varietals that contradict the traditions. This coupled together with technology and the evolution of the wine drinker’s palate is changing the stigmas of traditional viticulture.
Some of the new and exciting varieties/locations that I feel deserve mention are:
Chenin Blanc from South Africa. This is by far the best expression of this variety. Intense tropical flavours and an off-dry finish. It is traditionally grown in the Loire Valley, France, where it is uninteresting and not a wine worth mentioning.
Chardonnay from Burgundy, France. This is the traditional home of this grape and still the best location for growing. The cold weather produces Chardonnay that is crisp, dry and completely unlike the Australian and American versions.
Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The intense green grass and asparagus flavour of New Zealand Sauvignon is now the benchmark for this varietal. Their background in the use of stainless steel in the dairy industry has changed wine making all over the world.
Semillon from the Hunter Valley Australia. This variety is traditionally grown in Bordeaux France where it is blended with Sauvignon Blanc to produce a dry, heavily oaked wine. But the best comes from the Hunter Valley where the grapes can ripen to full maturity and still retain good acidity. The wines can age well and develop a waxy, creamy palate with flavours of green fruit. An acquired taste, but worth trying.
Albarino from Rias Biaxis, Spain. This is one of my favourite wines and yet is almost completely unknown to the general public. It has an intense perfumed aroma and all the tropical fruit flavours that new world wine drinkers love. Can be a little expensive but if you see one buy it.
Torrontes from Argentina. This is another almost unknown variety and yet it is the most widely planted variety in Argentina. It has intense tropical fruit flavours and a lingering palate of lychees and pineapple. Good, cheap and interesting, you should try it when ever you see it you wont be disappointed.
Pinot Noir from Chile. This is a great expression of this traditional Burgundy grape. The Altitude of the Andes gives this difficult variety soft round flavour of strawberry and raspberry. In Chile the use oak is less obvious than in Burgundy but the wines are no less sophisticated.
Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, Australia. The cooling effect of the ocean helps Coonawarra to have a long slow ripening season. This produces Cabernet with delicious smokey flavours with hints of chocolate. Cabernet is originally from Bordeaux in France but has always relied on years of aging to make their under ripe wine enjoyable.
Shiraz from Barossa Valley, Australia. No where else on the planet can produce such rich ripe Shiraz as the Barossa Valley. There wines are full of plum and cigar smoke flavours once again due to ripe fruit. Shiraz or Syrah as the French call it is traditionally grown in the Rhone Valley, but the fruit usually fails to ripen completely and it is blended with Grenache and Mourvedre.
These are but a few of the new great wine producing areas of the world. It is by no means a comprehensive list, and in an industry which is as dynamic as this, it is bound to change again soon. As I mentioned in my previous article, climate change is likely to be the greatest factor involved with wine production. So make sure you remain an ‘Indiscriminant Drinker’ and enjoy every bottle on its merit and not its reputation.
Monday, 23 July 2007
The Effects of Climate Change in the Wine Industry
Climate change is something that has been getting a lot of press for some time now. The facts are undeniable and people all over the world are already feeling its effects; Tidal surges and flooding in the Pacific, melting glaciers and ice caps, larger storms than normal and the warm summers that we have had during the last decade.
Wine has been made in Europe for thousands of years and in that time the climate has changed dramatically. Only a matter of 500 years ago the world was in the grips of a mini ice age. This ‘Little Ice Age’ started in about 1400 and lasted until about 1800. During this time winters in the Northern Hemisphere were so cold that in 1814 you could ice skate on the Thames and in 1780 New York Harbour froze over, allowing people to walk to Staten Island!
The cause of this ice age is still in debate but what occurred was a decrease in temperature by a couple of degree Celsius. This ‘Little Ice Age’ changed the geographical locations where wines were made throughout Europe. When it was over, people chose land and grape varieties that would produce good wine in the region that they lived in. The best of these became Appellation Controlee such as Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone, Champagne and Burgundy were all made since the end of the ‘Little Ice Age’ in temperatures that we consider normal.
We are now faced with the question of what would the wine map look like after the 2˚C increase which we are supposed to have within the next 50 years.
Canada may begin to produce wines in large quantities while the U.S. loose about 40% of its current land under vine. The entire of North American wine producing regions will be around the Canadian border and British Columbia. South America will struggle also pushing the vineyards into higher valleys in the Andes. However, for South America the lack of water for irrigation will be the most likely cause the problems.
Australia will see problems with the increased temperature and lack of water also. Vineyards in coastal regions will not have too much problem from heat due to the moderating effects of the ocean on temperature. But the inland vineyards will suffer greatly with hot summers resulting in a short growing season and poor quality wines. The costs of irrigation will also make it not worth growing a substandard wine. New Zealand however should not have many problems producing top quality wines, and may even be able to expand into different varietals.
Europe will have the biggest problem though. The rest of the world can adjust easily to this climatic change due to the infancy of its wine industries. However, European wine is steeped in tradition and law. Varieties must be planted in certain locations set by the government, with some regions having a history with their wines dating back to during the ‘Little Ice Age’.
Some researchers believe that a 1˚C increase in temperature in France will move the climate 200 km north. This will result in Champagne no longer being able to produce Sparkling wine and Burgundy having to change from Pinot Noir to Syrah and Grenache. Bordeaux which has always been too cold for cabernet Sauvignon resulted in the need to age their wines. Recent temperature increase have enabled Bordeaux to make good young drinking red wine, however if the temperature increase continue the quality of wine will decrease dramatically due to not enough tannin or acidity. The French government will have to respond very quickly to climate change and alter their Appellation Controlee laws.
Spain and Italy will both struggle and have to move their vineyards into the mountains loosing most of their recognised geographical locations. They will begin to loose market position as the quality of their wines drop.
England will be a big winner becoming the new Champagne. Surrey in South England is on the same strata as Champagne so it has the same limestone soil. The U.K. will also come produce some very good Pinot Noirs and Rieslings. Germany, Switzerland, and even Sweden and Norway will begin to make some top quality Rieslings and Gewurztraminers. A wider range of grape varieties will produce some interesting new wines.
The wine world that we now know will change completely, but it has been happening for thousands of years. It will mean the end for a lot of the famous wines we know, but it will open up a new world of different and interesting wines in the future. From a purchases point of view, your old favourite wines will continue to decrease in quality and increase in price. But there will be a steady rise in the number of new interesting wines at good prices as new wine regions emerge.
Wine has been made in Europe for thousands of years and in that time the climate has changed dramatically. Only a matter of 500 years ago the world was in the grips of a mini ice age. This ‘Little Ice Age’ started in about 1400 and lasted until about 1800. During this time winters in the Northern Hemisphere were so cold that in 1814 you could ice skate on the Thames and in 1780 New York Harbour froze over, allowing people to walk to Staten Island!
The cause of this ice age is still in debate but what occurred was a decrease in temperature by a couple of degree Celsius. This ‘Little Ice Age’ changed the geographical locations where wines were made throughout Europe. When it was over, people chose land and grape varieties that would produce good wine in the region that they lived in. The best of these became Appellation Controlee such as Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone, Champagne and Burgundy were all made since the end of the ‘Little Ice Age’ in temperatures that we consider normal.
We are now faced with the question of what would the wine map look like after the 2˚C increase which we are supposed to have within the next 50 years.
Canada may begin to produce wines in large quantities while the U.S. loose about 40% of its current land under vine. The entire of North American wine producing regions will be around the Canadian border and British Columbia. South America will struggle also pushing the vineyards into higher valleys in the Andes. However, for South America the lack of water for irrigation will be the most likely cause the problems.
Australia will see problems with the increased temperature and lack of water also. Vineyards in coastal regions will not have too much problem from heat due to the moderating effects of the ocean on temperature. But the inland vineyards will suffer greatly with hot summers resulting in a short growing season and poor quality wines. The costs of irrigation will also make it not worth growing a substandard wine. New Zealand however should not have many problems producing top quality wines, and may even be able to expand into different varietals.
Europe will have the biggest problem though. The rest of the world can adjust easily to this climatic change due to the infancy of its wine industries. However, European wine is steeped in tradition and law. Varieties must be planted in certain locations set by the government, with some regions having a history with their wines dating back to during the ‘Little Ice Age’.
Some researchers believe that a 1˚C increase in temperature in France will move the climate 200 km north. This will result in Champagne no longer being able to produce Sparkling wine and Burgundy having to change from Pinot Noir to Syrah and Grenache. Bordeaux which has always been too cold for cabernet Sauvignon resulted in the need to age their wines. Recent temperature increase have enabled Bordeaux to make good young drinking red wine, however if the temperature increase continue the quality of wine will decrease dramatically due to not enough tannin or acidity. The French government will have to respond very quickly to climate change and alter their Appellation Controlee laws.
Spain and Italy will both struggle and have to move their vineyards into the mountains loosing most of their recognised geographical locations. They will begin to loose market position as the quality of their wines drop.
England will be a big winner becoming the new Champagne. Surrey in South England is on the same strata as Champagne so it has the same limestone soil. The U.K. will also come produce some very good Pinot Noirs and Rieslings. Germany, Switzerland, and even Sweden and Norway will begin to make some top quality Rieslings and Gewurztraminers. A wider range of grape varieties will produce some interesting new wines.
The wine world that we now know will change completely, but it has been happening for thousands of years. It will mean the end for a lot of the famous wines we know, but it will open up a new world of different and interesting wines in the future. From a purchases point of view, your old favourite wines will continue to decrease in quality and increase in price. But there will be a steady rise in the number of new interesting wines at good prices as new wine regions emerge.
Monday, 16 July 2007
Wine and Food Matching
This is one of those topics which always get a lot of debate. There are a lot of opinions in the wine world about what wines should be drunk with which food, and a quick Google search will produce a couple of million search results.
The basic rule of 'red wine with red meat, and white wine with white meat' is a good basis to go by, but that does not mean it is always right. That rule was thought up years ago before the use of stainless steel and the fresh aromatic unoaked wines that are so popular today.
With the multicultual world we now all live in we have a wider range of international wine and foods than ever before. Wines like Spanish Albarino and Argentinian Torrontes are perfect with a lot of Asia Pacific cuisines. And some of these Spicey intense new world red blends are perfect with a lot of traditional european cuisines.
The main point with wine matching is to match the intensity of flavours, rather than trying to match particular flavours. This is a much better basic rule than 'red with red, and white with white.'
I personally enjoy a good strong flavoured New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with a steak on a summers day. This works very well as the pungent grassy asparagus flavours are easily strong enough to match a BBQ steak, and chilled white wine is always better at a hot sunny BBQ.
Another favourite of mine are a New World Pinot Noir with a roast chicken dinner. The vegetables, gravy, stuffing and thigh meat of a chicken definitely make up more of the meal than the white meat on the breast, so a light and fruity pinot goes down a treat.
The main thing is to enjoy both your food and wine. Experimentation can uncover some truly amazing matches, and can make it much easier to match wine and food correctly every time.
Friday, 13 July 2007
Introduction
Hello Indiscriminant Drinkers,
This is the Blog for anyone out there that enjoys talking and drinking good wine without the snobbery and stigma that comes with it.
I was born and raised in Australia but have spent my entire wine working experience in the United Kingdom. I am not biased towards any particular country when it comes to wine and had no preconceptions about wine before working in the industry.
This has given me a clean opinion to rate a wine on its own merits and not because of its country or brand.
In this blog you will see a multitude of topics discussed and reviews of new and great wines available. I will also give insight into the wine industry at all levels, and current issues.
Please post your own views and topics at anytime, they will be taken serious no matter what they may be.
And remember, Life is too short to drink bad wine!
The Indiscriminant Drinker
This is the Blog for anyone out there that enjoys talking and drinking good wine without the snobbery and stigma that comes with it.
I was born and raised in Australia but have spent my entire wine working experience in the United Kingdom. I am not biased towards any particular country when it comes to wine and had no preconceptions about wine before working in the industry.
This has given me a clean opinion to rate a wine on its own merits and not because of its country or brand.
In this blog you will see a multitude of topics discussed and reviews of new and great wines available. I will also give insight into the wine industry at all levels, and current issues.
Please post your own views and topics at anytime, they will be taken serious no matter what they may be.
And remember, Life is too short to drink bad wine!
The Indiscriminant Drinker
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