Climate change is something that has been getting a lot of press for some time now. The facts are undeniable and people all over the world are already feeling its effects; Tidal surges and flooding in the Pacific, melting glaciers and ice caps, larger storms than normal and the warm summers that we have had during the last decade.
Wine has been made in Europe for thousands of years and in that time the climate has changed dramatically. Only a matter of 500 years ago the world was in the grips of a mini ice age. This ‘Little Ice Age’ started in about 1400 and lasted until about 1800. During this time winters in the Northern Hemisphere were so cold that in 1814 you could ice skate on the Thames and in 1780 New York Harbour froze over, allowing people to walk to Staten Island!
The cause of this ice age is still in debate but what occurred was a decrease in temperature by a couple of degree Celsius. This ‘Little Ice Age’ changed the geographical locations where wines were made throughout Europe. When it was over, people chose land and grape varieties that would produce good wine in the region that they lived in. The best of these became Appellation Controlee such as Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone, Champagne and Burgundy were all made since the end of the ‘Little Ice Age’ in temperatures that we consider normal.
We are now faced with the question of what would the wine map look like after the 2˚C increase which we are supposed to have within the next 50 years.
Canada may begin to produce wines in large quantities while the U.S. loose about 40% of its current land under vine. The entire of North American wine producing regions will be around the Canadian border and British Columbia. South America will struggle also pushing the vineyards into higher valleys in the Andes. However, for South America the lack of water for irrigation will be the most likely cause the problems.
Australia will see problems with the increased temperature and lack of water also. Vineyards in coastal regions will not have too much problem from heat due to the moderating effects of the ocean on temperature. But the inland vineyards will suffer greatly with hot summers resulting in a short growing season and poor quality wines. The costs of irrigation will also make it not worth growing a substandard wine. New Zealand however should not have many problems producing top quality wines, and may even be able to expand into different varietals.
Europe will have the biggest problem though. The rest of the world can adjust easily to this climatic change due to the infancy of its wine industries. However, European wine is steeped in tradition and law. Varieties must be planted in certain locations set by the government, with some regions having a history with their wines dating back to during the ‘Little Ice Age’.
Some researchers believe that a 1˚C increase in temperature in France will move the climate 200 km north. This will result in Champagne no longer being able to produce Sparkling wine and Burgundy having to change from Pinot Noir to Syrah and Grenache. Bordeaux which has always been too cold for cabernet Sauvignon resulted in the need to age their wines. Recent temperature increase have enabled Bordeaux to make good young drinking red wine, however if the temperature increase continue the quality of wine will decrease dramatically due to not enough tannin or acidity. The French government will have to respond very quickly to climate change and alter their Appellation Controlee laws.
Spain and Italy will both struggle and have to move their vineyards into the mountains loosing most of their recognised geographical locations. They will begin to loose market position as the quality of their wines drop.
England will be a big winner becoming the new Champagne. Surrey in South England is on the same strata as Champagne so it has the same limestone soil. The U.K. will also come produce some very good Pinot Noirs and Rieslings. Germany, Switzerland, and even Sweden and Norway will begin to make some top quality Rieslings and Gewurztraminers. A wider range of grape varieties will produce some interesting new wines.
The wine world that we now know will change completely, but it has been happening for thousands of years. It will mean the end for a lot of the famous wines we know, but it will open up a new world of different and interesting wines in the future. From a purchases point of view, your old favourite wines will continue to decrease in quality and increase in price. But there will be a steady rise in the number of new interesting wines at good prices as new wine regions emerge.
Monday, 23 July 2007
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